A Bucket List Boating Day on the Island of Vis

Dreaming of Croatia’s tranquil, crystal-clear waters and remote, one-of-a-kind beaches but don’t want to spend your entire vacation confined to a boat? Tired of touristy excursions to overcrowded beaches and gimmicky attractions? Consider hiring your very own skipper and boat for the day.

Image featured above: The waters of the aptly named “Blue Lagoon” on the rustic and uninhabited island of Veli Budikovac, not far from the island of Vis.

Such a nautical adventure had been on my family’s bucket list for years. We checked it off on the island of Vis, located in the Adriatic Sea in Croatia’s Dalmatia region and the farthest inhabited island from the Croatian coast. We chose Vis for our bucket list experience because it is an ideal place to explore by boat. The island boasts a diverse array of beaches and sea caves, many of which are only accessible from the sea. And there is a scattering of tiny, uninhabited islands nearby. While we chose the island of Vis for this experience, it would be possible and worthwhile anywhere in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region.

Why hire a skipper and boat?

The experience is your very own, and in two different ways. First, only you and your loved ones are on the boat. You do not have to contend with other tourists and people you do not know. It is a bonding experience and a chance to relax and have fun together. Second, you set the agenda. You tell the skipper where you want to go, and the skipper takes you there. You are not bound to a schedule, so no hurrying from one place to another (unless you want to!). And if you do not know much about the area, don’t worry… the skipper has tons of knowledge and can suggest places to check out. All of this combines to create a veritable bucket list boating day, a unique, magical experience you and your family will remember forever.

How to Hire a Skipper and Boat

Day trips with a private skipper and boat can be arranged upon arrival in Croatia. Tourist agencies in coastal and island towns often have harbor front kiosks where it is possible to arrange a variety of nautical excursions. These companies typically push touristy group excursions and do not advertise the option of hiring a private skipper and boat. You, the customer, must request this option. They will be happy to arrange it for you, but for a price. In my family’s case, they arranged for a skipper and boat that would normally have taken a group of tourists out for the day. The price was stated in the local currency and payable in cash only. The cost was 600 Euros (around 640 US dollars or 518 British pounds) for our group of four adults and two children, and they were unwilling to negotiate on the price. We were also required to provide lunch for the skipper, and advised to make a lunch reservation ahead of time if we did not wish to eat on the boat.

Preferred Payment Methods in Croatia

It is important to note that in Croatia, cash is not only preferred, but oftentimes the required method of payment. Credit cards are often not accepted. When I travel to Croatia, I bring my ATM card and withdraw cash throughout the trip as I need it. I take along some cash that I set aside to exchange for local currency in an emergency. I also bring my credit card, but typically only use it in fine dining establishments.

What to Expect on Your Bucket List Boating Day

We met our skipper on Komiža’s harbor front and boarded the boat around 9:00 AM. We wore swimsuits and cover ups and brought along water, snacks, towels, sunscreen, sunglasses, hats, cameras and phones, cash and credit cards for lunch, and a change of clothes. The skipper began by asking us what our goals were for the day. After years of exploring the beaches on the island of Vis from land, our primary goal was to visit beaches and sea caves inaccessible from land. We also looked forward to experiencing some of the beaches we’d been to in the past from a new vantage point, approaching them from the sea instead. Another subject discussed was the plan for lunch. More on that later on in the post!

Our first stop of the day was at a sea cave with an unusual pants-like formation in its center. Another group beat us there, so we hung out on the boat and took photos.

Next, we proceeded to Mala Pritiščina Beach, located in a tiny cove only accessible from the sea. We had in fact been to the beach once before, albeit after a requisite ten to fifteen minute swim from its big sister, nearby Pritiščina Beach. It was much more convenient to simply jump off the boat. And bonus, we were the only ones there!

Soon other boats began arriving, a sign that it was time to motor on to our next destination.

Our next stop was a sea cave with pink pebbles and dark blue water that was strikingly dense and gelatinous in appearance, an illusion created by the way the sun reflects off the sea bed near the cave. We had the cave all to ourselves, so took our time swimming and exploring.

Next on deck was Stiniva Beach. The beach is arguably one of the most dramatic in all of Croatia, in a cove surrounded and protected by towering limestone cliffs with only a narrow channel connecting it to the open sea. When I float on my back in the waters of Stiniva Beach and gaze upward, the cliffs remind me of the soaring walls of a Gothic cathedral.

We had visited Stiniva Beach in the past, approaching it from land by a challenging hike down a steep and rocky cliff face. Due to the various changes in altitude, the land approach permits for spectacular views. We were curious to discover if the beach was equally spectacular upon approach from sea.

From sea, the lofty limestone cliffs stood like two sentries guarding the narrow channel to the cove and beach. We found the land approach more spectacular than the one from sea, as the hike down the cliff face permits for amazingly breathtaking views. Which approach do you like best?

After more than half a day of sun and sea, we worked up a ravenous appetite. We’d made a lunch reservation at the highly acclaimed Konoba Budikovac, a restaurant owned and operated by a retired sea captain and the only service on the uninhabited island of Veli Budikovac. Earlier that day, when we first met our skipper he informed us that the captain occasionally closes the restaurant the morning of when he needs a break. Our skipper called the captain three hours ahead of time to confirm the restaurant was open, and thankfully, it was!

I must admit, our lunch break at Konoba Budicovac was perhaps my most favorite experience of the day! I am always amazed at how expert Croatians are at creating inviting alfresco dining spaces, transforming the simple act of eating into a divine and memorable experience. The terrace at Konoba Budicovac did not disappoint. It was the perfect place to dine, relax, and recharge.

Lunch at Konoba Budikovac is served family style. The cuisine is typical of the Dalmatia region, consisting of fresh fish and meats. To start, we ordered two distinctly different salads, one of fresh tomatoes and capers drizzled in olive oil, the other the Dalmatian specialty octopus salad. Both were seasoned in the traditional Dalmatian way with a little bit of sea salt.

Our main course consisted of tuna steaks and the traditional Dalmatian dish pašticada. Pašticada consists of a beef ragu served atop a bed of gnocchi. According to my Dalmatian husband, pašticada has unassuming origins as a homely peasant dish, the purpose of which was to use up every little last bit of leftover red meat. And because there was often not a lot of meat left, gnocchi was served to add sustenance to the meal.

The kiddos enjoyed a spaghetti marinara dish.

After lunch we headed to Smokova Beach, a remote beach we were visiting for the very first time. Like many of the other beaches on the island of Vis, Smokova Beach is only accessible from land by hike. Adding to our desire to visit the beach was that it consists completely of sand, a rarity in Croatia, where the vast majority of beaches are pebble. The island of Vis is unusual in that a few sand beaches can be found, just another quality adding to the true one-of-a-kind nature of the island’s beaches.

We began our journey back to Komiža in the early evening, after spending about nine hours in the sea and sun. Our active day left us physically exhausted, but in a good way!

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